Unique paleontological archive of frozen footsteps of saber-toothed cats and hipparions –
The traces of ancient animals in the Zhygylgan tract (sinkhole, fallen land) represent an exceptionally rare ichnological monument of natural history, located at the bottom of the cyclopean tectonic Zhygylgan sinkhole in the northeast of the Tyubkaragan Peninsula in the Mangystau region. On smooth slabs of dense petrified sandstone and marl, which once formed the muddy shore of a Neogene water body, distinct trackways of paw prints and hoofprints left by prehistoric mammals dating back 10 to 15 million years have been preserved.
The crown jewels of this stone chronicle are the paw prints of ferocious saber-toothed cats (Machairodus) with distinguishable digital pads and claw marks, as well as fossilized hoofprints of primitive three-toed horses (Hipparion) and ancient artiodactyls. The animals walked across the viscous carbonate silt to a watering hole during the Miocene and Pliocene epochs, after which the scorching sun dried the imprints, and incoming marine sediments preserved them for millions of years.
Visiting the paleontological slab at the bottom of Zhygylgan seamlessly complements an expedition across Northern Mangyshlak, bordering the saline heart-shaped Lake Kuzdakary (Kuzebay), ruins of 14th–15th-century medieval fortresses, the weeping waterfall and Tamshaly oasis, the underground mosques of Sultan-Epe and Shakpak-Ata (UNESCO monument), as well as the snow-white Kapamsay canyon.
Today, the footprints of ancient animals in Zhygylgan are recognized as a paleontological phenomenon of global scale, attracting ichnologists, evolutionary researchers, and tourists from all over the world who wish to touch a frozen moment of prehistoric life.
To locate the footprint slabs, use the services of guides who can lead you accurately to the main locations, as the area is quite large and finding the tracks independently is not easy.
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How to get there and visit –
The paleontological site is located at the bottom of the Zhygylgan sinkhole basin in the Tupkaragan district, approximately 110–150 kilometers north of the city of Aktau and 50 kilometers northeast of the city of Fort-Shevchenko, Mangystau region, Republic of Kazakhstan.
GPS geographical coordinates: 44°37'19"N 50°48'38"E
The primary route from Aktau runs along a paved highway toward Fort-Shevchenko, after which the route turns onto compacted yet stony steppe gravel tracks leading to the coast of Cape Tyub-Karagan. A well-worn dirt road leads to the upper rim of the cliff, accessible to four-wheel-drive vehicles.
A trip to the Zhygylgan sinkhole tract requires a prepared frame-based off-road vehicle (4x4) with high ground clearance and durable tires (AT/MT) capable of withstanding sharp flint fragments. There is no vehicular descent directly to the slab with the tracks: cars are parked up above at the edge of the chink or along the coastal turn-offs of the cape, after which the descent to the bottom of the depression is undertaken on foot from the southeastern side of the collapse.
The walking trek across the chaotic piles of multi-ton limestone slabs requires sturdy trekking shoes with a stiff non-slip tread, sun protection, a head covering, and a drinking water supply of no less than 3–4 liters per person. In warm seasons, snakes (colubers, grass snakes, and steppe vipers) occur among the rock falls and bushes; therefore, it is essential to watch your step carefully and avoid stepping into blind crevices.
The optimal time to visit is spring (from late April to early June) and warm autumn (September – October). At the height of summer, the light-colored limestone at the bottom of the enclosed cirque bakes in the sun, driving air temperatures above +40 °C.
Infrastructure at the site is entirely absent. A self-sufficient camp can be set up on the flat plateau above the chink at a safe distance from the edge, or at the foot along the shingle coast of the Caspian.
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History
The geological chronicle of the formation of these ichnological imprints is rooted in the Late Miocene and Early Pliocene epochs of the Neogene period (about 10–15 million years ago). During this era, vast expanses of modern Mangyshlak were covered by the brackish Sarmatian Sea, which was later replaced by the shallow lagoons of the Akchagylian basin – relict remnants of the ancient Tethys Ocean.
The climate of that era was humid and warm, resembling the modern African savanna. Along the gentle sandy-silty shores of shallow lakes and lagoons stretched lush pastures that attracted herds of hipparions – small, three-toed ancestors of modern horses. Tracking their movements were the ferocious predators of that time – machairodonts (saber-toothed cats), whose elongated canines and powerful paws enabled them to hunt large game.
Walking across the moist, dense carbonate-clay silt, the animals left deep impressions. Under the influence of dry wind and sunlight, the silt rapidly dried and hardened. A subsequent wave of marine transgression gently blanketed this layer with a fresh stratum of fine-grained sand and calcareous sediment, preserving the footprints for millions of years and transforming the soft soil into a monolithic slab of sandy limestone.
As a result of a large-scale gravitational-tectonic collapse of the coastal Zhygylgan plateau, slabs of the limestone crust tens of meters thick plummeted downward, shattering into fragments. During the fracturing, one of the layers split open precisely along the ancient bedding plane, revealing the frozen surface of the Neogene shoreline to the eyes of scientists.
The first scientific investigations of the footprint slabs were carried out by Soviet paleontologists and geologists of the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR in the 1960s and 1970s. The discovery created an international resonance, proving the presence of a rich Hipparion fauna on the territory of modern Mangyshlak during the Neogene.
Information
The ichnological complex of Zhygylgan consists of exposures of dense, finely bedded, ferruginous sandstone and coquina strata occurring in the middle part of the chink's geological section.
Researchers have documented dozens of imprints across the surface of the stone slabs:
• Footprints of the saber-toothed cat (Machairodus) – distinct rounded prints of four digital pads, the plantar pad, and deep scratch marks from non-retractile claws. The stride length and indentation depth indicate the smooth stalking of prey or the unhurried gait of a massive predator.
• Traces of hipparions – hoofprints of three-toed primitive horses, in which the central large hoof and two smaller lateral toes characteristic of Neogene equine ancestors stand out clearly.
• Tracks of ancient artiodactyls and antelopes – paired semicircular prints of cloven hooves belonging to small steppe ungulates.
In addition to the footprints, fossils of marine fauna are encountered everywhere on slab breaks: shells of cardiid bivalves, imprints of sea urchins, and tubular burrows of deposit-feeding worms.
The climate where the slabs lie is dry and extra-continental, with a strong wind regime blowing in from the sea. The paleontological monument carries the highest scientific value and is under protection: chipping away fragments of the rock, walking on the footprints in stiff cleated footwear, and applying any markings are strictly prohibited.
Detailed description of the venue
The ichnological and geological zone of the Zhygylgan sinkhole includes several key features and landmarks:
• Main slab with Machairodus footprints – a horizontal flat sandstone block measuring several square meters, across which an unbroken sequence of several consecutive strides of a large predator can be traced.
• Section of Hipparion fauna traces – neighboring slabs of petrified silt bearing multiple intersecting hoofprints of primitive horses and ungulates heading to a watering site.
• Chink rock fault – the original bed location of the stratum, making it possible to trace the stratigraphy of sedimentary layers from bottom clays to the upper protective limestone caprock.
• Lake Kuzdakary (Kuzebay) – a saline water body of regular heart-like shape situated 200 meters from the slabs, serving as an excellent topographical landmark.
• Stone overhangs and grottos – karst hollows beneath fallen slabs adjacent to the paleontological zone, where one can take shelter from the midday sun.
• Viewing ridge – an elevated stone crest above the slabs, offering a view across the entire chain of paleontological outcrops against the backdrop of the sea.
Flora and fauna
Vegetation around the footprint slabs is distributed in patches, concentrating within deep fissures and shaded hollows between the limestone monoliths. In the cool micro-niches of the rocks, ferns rare for arid zones, wild peppermint, and thickets of trailing capers are found. On open gravelly plots, drought-resistant semi-shrubs grow: gray-soil wormwood, salt-marsh biyurgun, boyalych, Atraphaxis, and spiny bean caper. Bush thickets of tamarisk (saltcedar) and nitre bush grow along sandy accumulations near the shore. In spring, wild tulips and dwarf desert irises bloom.
The animal kingdom of the area is represented by species adapted to life within a rugged, challenging stone labyrinth. On the sheer cliffs of the chink and giant slabs graze Ustyurt mountain sheep (mouflons), finding refuge here from wolves and poachers. Corsac foxes, badgers, marbled polecats, and tolai hares inhabit rock crevices.
Among reptiles, the steppe agama, rapid fringe-toed lizard, patterned runner, Caspian whipsnake, and steppe viper are common. On marine rocks by the surf line, the Red Book-listed Caspian seal occasionally appears. Predatory birds soar in the sky above the sinkhole – golden eagles, long-legged buzzards, saker falcons, and eagle owls, scanning for prey among the stone slabs.
Legend
An ancient Mangystau legend about the phantom hunt of steppe spirits is linked to the petrified footprints at the bottom of Zhygylgan. Lore recounts that during the creation of the world, when the great ocean had only just laid bare its saline shores, giant sacred snow leopards and fire-maned steeds of the celestials trod upon this land. They kept the peace of the ancient earth, guarding the secrets of the underwater realm.
When fierce demons of the underworld attempted to seize the firmament, the supreme leopard engaged in combat with the prince of darkness on the muddy shore of the sea. The duel shook the foundations of the universe. To seal the defeated evil in the depths forever, the spirits of the sky brought down the rock vaults of the plateau directly onto the coast, transforming the soft silt together with the footprints of the battle into unyielding granite-hard stone. Nomads believed that the frozen footprints carry a blessing of strength and fearlessness: a warrior who touched the palm of his hand to the paw print of the ancient beast at dawn acquired the sharp vision of a leopard and the endurance of a wild steed.
Conclusion
The footprints of ancient animals in the Zhygylgan tract are an astounding tangible testimony of Earth's prehistoric life, reaching us through strata of fifteen million years. The contrast of the grandiose stone chaos of the Fallen Land and the fragile, finely detailed footsteps of saber-toothed cats and hipparions creates a profound sense of the bond between eras.
Descending to the bottom of the sinkhole to reach the paleontological slabs grants travelers a unique expedition experience, turning their exploration of Mangyshlak into an enthralling journey deep into the geological epochs of our planet.
Interesting sights nearby:
• Caspian Sea in Kazakhstan;
• Kenty-Baba Necropolis;
• Kapamsay Canyon;
• Tamshaly Tract;
• Sultan-Epe Canyon;
• Heart-Shaped Lake Kuzdykary;
• Meretsay Canyon;
• Khanga Baba Tract;
• Bozzhira Tract;
• Ashchysor Depression;
• Karagiye Depression;
• Ustyurt Plateau;
• Kuandy Depression.
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