Marble Wall Peak
Mountaineering in the Bayankol gorge -
Mountain hike along the Bayankol gorge to the Marble Wall peak -
Marble Wall is a mountain peak, famous for its mountain route to its top, the height of the peak is 6140 meters above sea level, the difficulty level of the route is 4B, 5B. There are 3 intermediate camps on the way to the top, the first camp is located at an altitude of 4400 meters, 5200 meters, 5800 meters.
The state border between Kazakhstan and China runs along the top. On the western side of the Marble Wall peak, where the vertical marble wall breaks into the abyss, the sources of one of the extended glaciers of the Central Tien Shan - the Northern Inylchek Glacier - begin from here.
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How to get there, visit -
Marble Wall Peak is located in the upper reaches of the Bayankol gorge, Raimbesky district, Almaty region.
GPS coordinates: N42°15'17" E80°17'04"
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Information, history
The name "Marble Wall" was given by G. Merzbacher to the main peak that closes the Bayankol gorge. The north-western part of this ice-bound peak is an almost vertical wall, exposed from snow and ice, about two thousand meters high, consisting of white and striped marble.
An attempt by G. Merzbacher in 1902 to climb the peak of the Marble Wall was unsuccessful. Merzbacher considered the reason for his failure to be extremely unfavorable weather conditions, the specific qualities of snow in the high-altitude Tien Shan, especially dangerous with regard to the formation of avalanches, and the lack of well-trained and trained porters.
In 1935, Soviet climbers led by E.S. Levin attempted to conquer the top of the Marble Wall. The group reached an altitude of 5,000 - 5,300 meters above sea level, but an avalanche partially covered the tents on the slope, forced the climbers to retreat.
11 years later, on August 28, 1946, the expedition of the All-Union Sports Committee led by A.A. Letavet conquered the Marble Wall (6146) through the Border Guard Peak, for which the participants were awarded diplomas, and the peak of "Nikolai Mikhailovich" (6400) was renamed the peak of the "100th anniversary of the VGO" in honor of the centenary of the founding of the Russian Geographical Society (1845).
In 1953, Kazakh climbers of V. Shipilov's group again stormed the peaks of this area. Through the icefall, they reached the ridge above the Border Guard peak with a height of 5100 meters above sea level, climbed to a plateau with a height of 6146 meters above sea level and then ascended to the peak with a height of 6400 meters above sea level, declaring it a valid Marble Wall (6350). A new and more accurate height of the Marble Wall peak was determined by P.K. Rykalov in July-August 2009, during a hike of the 6th category of difficulty in the eastern part of the Central Tien Shan. The height of the Marble Wall peak was 6140 meters above sea level.
Tour itinerary:
The expedition starts from Almaty city. From here the group departs for the Zharkulak mine (2900 m), the journey takes about 7 hours: the main part of the way is on asphalt, the last 30 km - on a dirt road, which is quite difficult in places. In good weather, you can see the majestic Khan Tengri from the road.
At the mine, participants unload and walk about 12 km (approximately 3 hours of trekking) to the "Sliyaniye" Base Camp located at an altitude of 3200 m. The terrain is not difficult, but the first day is quite tiring.
For several days, participants acclimatize by making radial trips to high-altitude camps, after which the main ascent begins. It consists of five main sections (excluding the climb to the base camp).
Section 1.
Climb from base camp to Camp 1 (4300 m).
The terrain is simple: mostly trails, one short and one long scree section.
No special equipment is required here, only endurance. On the way, a beautiful view of the glaciers and moraines of the Marble Wall opens up.
Section 2.
Steep snow-and-ice climb to Uzlovaya Peak, where Camp 2 is located at an altitude of 4950 m. Here, skills in walking in crampons, moving in a rope team, and working with an ice axe are necessary.
Section 3.
Technically difficult part of the route - the so-called "knife". This is a steep narrow ridge about 250 m long, where fixed ropes will be installed. This is followed by a descent, then an ascent to Pogranichnik Peak (5000 m) and another descent to Camp 3 (4870 m).
Section 4.
Steep climbs on mixed terrain (rocks, snow, ice). Fixed rope railings are installed before reaching the "plateau", where Camp 4 (5700 m) is located.
Section 5.
Summit push and return to Camp 4. The terrain is slightly more difficult and longer than the previous day. Oxygen deficiency is strongly felt here. The path passes through an elevation (camel) and a descent from it, after which the final ascent to the summit along a rocky ridge begins. The summit is a gravel dome with magnificent views of Khan Tengri Peak, Pobeda Peak, Bayankol, Kazakhstan, Karlytau, Semenov, Odinnadtsati peaks and other giants of the Tien Shan. Marble Wall Peak is the northernmost 6000m peak, so weather conditions on the mountain are extremely harsh and very changeable.
Day 1. Meeting the group in Almaty. Transfer to the hotel.
Day 2. Transfer Almaty — Zharkulak, trek to the base camp.
Day 3. Acclimatization in the base camp.
Day 4. Acclimatization in the base camp.
Day 5. Acclimatization hike to Camp 1, overnight stay.
Day 6. Move to Camp 2, overnight stay.
Day 7. Descent to the base camp, rest.
Day 8. Rest in the base camp.
Day 9. Rest and preparation for the ascent.
Day 10. Start of the ascent. Base camp — Camp 1.
Day 11. Camp 1 — Camp 2.
Day 12. Camp 2 — Camp 3.
Day 13. Camp 3 — Camp 4.
Day 14. Summit push — return to Camp 4.
Day 15. Descent to Camp 3.
Day 16. Descent to the base camp.
Day 17. Rest in the base camp (reserve day for bad weather).
Day 18. Rest in the base camp (reserve day for bad weather).
Day 19. Rest in the base camp (reserve day for bad weather).
Day 20. Descent to Zharkulak, transfer to Almaty, hotel accommodation.
Day 21. Transfer to the airport.
Footwear and clothing
1) High altitude double boots for altitudes 6000+ (It is important that the shoes are comfortable and broken in)* 2) Changeable footwear - light boots (trekking boots in which you will walk to the Base Camp and from BC to Camp 1)* 3) Light footwear like Crocs (for wearing in the Base Camp so that the feet can rest)* 4) Socks (thermal socks, trekking socks several pairs)* 5) Down socks for sleeping
6) Set of thermal underwear
7) Warm sweater (Polartec)* 8) Insulating layer (For example, fleece thermal underwear)* 9) Insulated full-zip pants (preferably down, or warm Polartec)* 10) Gore-tex full-zip pants (windproof)* 11) High-altitude down jacket* 12) Gore-tex jacket (windproof)* 13) Warm hat*
14) Balaclava/buff*
15) Warm mittens (down or similar)* 16) Warm gloves (to wear under mittens, for example fleece)* 17) Over-mittens (third layer of mittens)* 18) Synthetic T-shirts*
19) Underwear several pieces* 20) Thin down jacket to wear under the main down jacket* 21) Sunglasses* 22) Ski mask*
1) Backpack 85L*
2) Duffel bag 100L
3) Sleeping bag (Comfort temperature -15/-20, Extreme -25/-30)*
4) Sleeping pad (Inflatable or regular, at least 2cm thick. Thermal insulation coefficient <5)*
5) Harness* (climbing safety system)*
6) Carbines 4pcs*
7) Jumar*
8) Climbing crampons*
9) Accessory cord 3m*
10) Ice axe*
11) Figure eight (descender)*
12) Climbing helmet*
13) Trekking poles*
Light:
1) Headlamp*
Medicine and hygiene:
1) Individual first aid kit with medications you usually need. As well as a basic set for self-administered first aid*
2) Sunscreen 50+*
3) Hygienic lipstick or petroleum jelly for lips*
4) Wet wipes and toilet paper*
5) Toothbrush and toothpaste
6) Hand sanitizer
Dishes and cooking:
1) Thermos (1 liter)*
2) Pot or Jetboil*
3) Burner (Assault tents accommodate 2-3 people, each tent must have one working and one spare burner)*
4) Camping mug and bowl*
5) Ordinary flint lighter*
6) Folding knife
7) Spoon*
Electronics:
1) Power Bank battery
2) Charging cables for gadgets
*Items marked with an asterisk are mandatory.
(Public equipment is shared equally among the group.)
The expedition takes place in a border zone, so special passes are required. Documents must be submitted at least three weeks before the start.
Each participant must have insurance with coverage of at least 30,000 USD.
The "occupation" field must specify "mountaineering".
The insurance policy must include helicopter evacuation.
The insurance company assist MUST NOT BE GLOBAL VOYAGER! Therefore, in case of purchasing an insurance policy from an insurance company served by the aforementioned assist, transportation and medical service costs will be covered at your own expense.
Participation in the expedition is not allowed without insurance that meets all requirements.
Full package cost: 3300 USD (for early booking until December 31, 2025)
Package includes:
Professional high-altitude guide services.
Set of high-altitude food products.
Use of mountain infrastructure (tents, fixed ropes).
Documentation (border pass).
Airport meeting, hotel transfer, transfers after the expedition (hotel, airport).
Transfer from the city to the Zharkulak mine and back.
Hotel accommodation: 1 night before and 1 night after the expedition.
Accommodation in double tents in the base camp.
Base camp services (three meals a day, electricity).
Public equipment: ropes, dishes, burners, gas.
Ecological fees.
First aid and doctor consultation in the base camp.
Package does not include:
Horses for transporting personal belongings.
Surcharge for single occupancy (in the hotel and base camp).
Personal equipment rental.
Additional nights in the hotel.
Insurance policy.
Use of shower.
Internet.
Visa (for foreigners).
Marble Wall Peak "Full Package" (independent ascent)
Package cost: 2000 USD (for early booking until December 31, 2025)
*These prices are valid for early booking (before the New Year).
Package includes:
Use of fixed ropes on the mountain.
Documentation (border pass).
Airport meeting, hotel transfer, transfers after the expedition (hotel, airport).
Transfer from the city to the Zharkulak mine and back (transfer departs on schedule).
Hotel accommodation: 1 night before and 1 night after the expedition.
Accommodation in double tents in the base camp.
Base camp services (three meals a day, electricity).
Ecological fees.
First aid and doctor consultation in the base camp.
Package does not include:
High-altitude food sets.
Individual climbing equipment (crampons, ice axe, harness, etc.).
Organization of high-altitude camps.
Public equipment: ropes, dishes, burners, gas.
High-altitude guide services.
Horses for transporting personal belongings.
Surcharge for single occupancy (in the hotel and base camp).
Personal equipment rental.
Additional nights in the hotel.
Insurance policy.
Use of shower.
Internet.
Visa (for foreigners).
Booking, payment and refund terms:
To book participation in the expedition, you need to make a prepayment of 50% of the cost. The remaining part is paid no later than four weeks before the start.
In case of cancellation later than 2 weeks before the start, 50% of the full cost is withheld to cover organizational expenses incurred.
A participant has the right to transfer their place to another person. To do this, you must inform the organizer at least 4 weeks before the start.
Additional services:
Ascent or descent of equipment on a horse (up to 70kg in total): 6$ per kilogram.
High-altitude guide services: 3000$ for 21 days.
Individual one-way transfer (price per 4-seater car): 600$
Staying in the camp with three meals a day (double occupancy): 70$/day.
Staying in the camp without meals (double occupancy): 45$/day.
Meals in the camp without staying: 45$/day.
Border zone pass processing: 20$
Use of shower: 26$
Satellite internet: 40$ per person (paid for the whole group at once and provided for the entire duration of the program).
High-altitude food set: 240$
Gas cylinder KOVEA/COLEMAN 230 g: 24$/piece
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