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Marble Wall Peak

Mountaineering in the Bayankol gorge -

Mountain hike along the Bayankol gorge to the Marble Wall peak -

Marble Wall is a mountain peak, famous for its mountain route to its top, the height of the peak is 6140 meters above sea level, the difficulty level of the route is 4B, 5B. There are 3 intermediate camps on the way to the top, the first camp is located at an altitude of 4400 meters, 5200 meters, 5800 meters. The state border between Kazakhstan and China runs along the top. On the western side of the Marble Wall peak, where the vertical marble wall breaks into the abyss, the sources of one of the extended glaciers of the Central Tien Shan - the Northern Inylchek Glacier - begin from here.

How to get there, visit -

Marble Wall Peak is located in the upper reaches of the Bayankol gorge, Raimbesky district, Almaty region.
GPS coordinates: N42°15'17" E80°17'04"

Information, history -

The name "Marble Wall" was given by G. Merzbacher to the main peak that closes the Bayankol gorge. The north-western part of this ice-bound peak is an almost vertical wall, exposed from snow and ice, about two thousand meters high, consisting of white and striped marble. An attempt by G. Merzbacher in 1902 to climb the peak of the Marble Wall was unsuccessful. Merzbacher considered the reason for his failure to be extremely unfavorable weather conditions, the specific qualities of snow in the high-altitude Tien Shan, especially dangerous with regard to the formation of avalanches, and the lack of well-trained and trained porters. In 1935, Soviet climbers led by E.S. Levin attempted to conquer the top of the Marble Wall. The group reached an altitude of 5,000 - 5,300 meters above sea level, but an avalanche partially covered the tents on the slope, forced the climbers to retreat.

11 years later, on August 28, 1946, the expedition of the All-Union Sports Committee led by A.A. Letavet conquered the Marble Wall (6146) through the Border Guard Peak, for which the participants were awarded diplomas, and the peak of "Nikolai Mikhailovich" (6400) was renamed the peak of the "100th anniversary of the VGO" in honor of the centenary of the founding of the Russian Geographical Society (1845). In 1953, Kazakh climbers of V. Shipilov's group again stormed the peaks of this area. Through the icefall, they reached the ridge above the Border Guard peak with a height of 5100 meters above sea level, climbed to a plateau with a height of 6146 meters above sea level and then ascended to the peak with a height of 6400 meters above sea level, declaring it a valid Marble Wall (6350). A new and more accurate height of the Marble Wall peak was determined by P.K. Rykalov in July-August 2009, during a hike of the 6th category of difficulty in the eastern part of the Central Tien Shan. The height of the Marble Wall peak was 6140 meters above sea level.

Marble Wall Peak, Almaty region, Raimbek district


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