Border Guard Peak (Pogranichnik), Bayankol Gorge
Meridional ridge in Bayankol Gorge -
Climbing the Border Guard peak in the Bayankol Gorge -
The Border Guard Peak is a mountain peak, located in the Sarydzha ridge, its height is 5100 meters above sea level. The peak is snowy, domed. The peak is intermediate for climbing along the crest of the ridge to the Marble Wall peak along the classic route. A ridge covered with a glacier departs from the summit to the northwest. After 940 meters, the glacier slides to the left and connects with the Vostochny Bayankol glacier, exposing the western rocky slope of the ridge and continuing to descend to a height of 3570 meters above sea level.
How to get there, visit -
Border Guard Peak is located in the upper reaches of the Banyakol gorge, Sarydzha ridge, Raimbek mountain district, Almaty region.
GPS coordinates: N42°18'48" E80°16'18"
Information, history -
The first attempt to climb the Marble Wall peak was made in 1935 by Soviet climbers led by E.S. Levin. The group reached an altitude of 5,000 - 5,300 meters above sea level, but an avalanche partially covered the tents on the slope, forced the climbers to retreat.
On August 28, at 15 o'clock in 1946, a group of climbers consisting of seven Soviet climbers: V.S. Naumenko, E.V. Timashev, V.F. Gusev, V.I. Nikolsky, A.S. Mukhin, A.I. Ivanov and I.S. Daibog made the first ascent to the top of the Marble Wall.
Climbing route: Lower camp 3950 meters above sea level – Nodal peak with a height of 5070 meters above sea level – Border Guard peak with a height of 5250 meters above sea level – Marble Wall peak with a height of 6150 meters above sea level.
The expedition was organized by the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR. The expedition was also attended by: the head of the expedition - corresponding member of the Academy of Medical Sciences prof. A.A. Letavet, engineer S.G. Uspensky and the expedition doctor - Professor N.A. Fedorov
Border Guard Peak in Bayankol Gorge, Almaty region