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Partizan Peak (route and ascent)


Mountaineering in the Tien Shan Mountains -

Mountain hikes from the Tuyuk-Su alpine camp -

Partizan Peak (Guerrilla) is a mountain peak, located at an altitude of 4390 meters above sea level, is one of the highest peaks in the upper reaches of the Small Almaty Gorge. The peak is very popular among fans of multi-day mountain climbing, mountain climbers, rock climbers, outdoor enthusiasts and hiking in the mountains. The routes to the peak have difficulty 2B and 3B, there are a total of 4 routes to the peak (3 routes have difficulty 3B and 1 route has difficulty 2B). The ascent to the peak starts from the Tuyuk-Su T1 high-altitude glaciological station, which is located in the Tuyuksu high-altitude circus. The ascent requires experience working with special climbing equipment and teamwork. The mountain valley where the station is located is also very popular, as it is accessed by a road from the station of Shymbulak, through the tract of Mynzhilki, which is also interesting for hiking and admiring the mountains. The peak of the Partisans was named after the "Soviet Partisans" who participated in World War II, the Soviet Union against Nazi Germany. The first ascent of the peak was made in 1937 by a group of climbers led by O. Aristov.

How to get there and visit -

Partizan Peak is located in the mountains of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the upper reaches of the Small Almaty Gorge, a mountainous area near the Tuyuk-Su T1 station, Ile-Alatau Park, Medeu district, Almaty region, Republic of Kazakhstan.
GPS coordinates: 43°03'10"N 77°06'45"E

Information -

Traveling to Partizan Peak requires careful preparation. It is necessary to have warm clothes, climbing equipment (crampons, ice axe, ropes) and enough water and food. It is best to go to the mountains with an experienced guide or as part of a group, especially if you plan to complete difficult routes. Sudden changes in weather are possible in summer, and high avalanche danger in winter and spring, so it is important to take into account seasonality and weather forecast. Experienced climbers recommend starting the ascent early in the morning in order to be able to return before dark. Trails lead through glaciers, rocky outcrops, and snowy slopes that require good physical fitness and equipment. Experienced climbers can choose more difficult routes along the western and northern slopes, where there are areas with steep climbs and technical obstacles. Convenient accessibility makes climbing possible even in the format of a short hike, and for those who want to spend more time in the mountains there is an opportunity to stay at the Tuyuk-Su alpine camp.
Partizan Peak is a place where you can test yourself, enjoy the majestic nature and feel the spirit of a real adventure. It awaits those who are ready to conquer the peaks and unforgettable emotions!

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